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He refuses to buy fur from China, where farming is unregulated and where no law protects the millions of animals that are routinely skinned alive. In the past decade, Wintour has had a dead racoon dumped on her plate at the Four Seasons and her front steps splattered with red paint. Slowly but surely, so the reasoning goes, there is a trickle-down effect and fur becomes gradually more acceptable to a whole new generation of potential customers. The fur apologists insist that real fur is natural, renewable, biodegradable and energy efficient in comparison to the synthetic versions. I love the texture and I love the colour. I got so many compliments wearing it. Others came with their children, holding their hands tightly against the scrum.

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At 60 she is slim, blonde and neatly dressed, the sort of woman one can more easily imagine running a florist's shop in Guildford than being the mastermind behind the world's largest animal rights organisation. I used to have the most amazing coat made of squirrels. It would seem unnecessary, ostentatious and somewhat unfeeling, though I can't explain it more than that. The guests are up-and-coming fashion designers from around the world, flown here for an all-expenses-paid trip arranged by representatives from one of the world's largest fur companies, Kopenhagen Fur. Fur used to be the mark of a social pariah. That is probably worth thinking about, no matter how fashionable it might seem. Over the last few years companies like Kopenhagen Fur or Saga Furs — powerful international suppliers that dominate the luxury market — have been spearheading a quiet campaign to break the fur taboo.

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What has driven this change in attitude. On farms, they can be gassed, electrocuted, poisoned with strychnine or have their necks broken. But for Newkirk, the most powerful argument against wearing fur is the suffering of the animals raised to provide it. The truth of this is somewhat difficult to establish. Six months before the Knightsbridge protest, the catwalks of New York, London and Milan fashion week were filled with animal skins of all description. The shifting tide of public opinion is reflected in the figures. At that point, it's just.

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Description: That is probably worth thinking about, no matter how fashionable it might seem. Maybe big advertising pushes [like the Peta campaigns] don't have as much punch to them now". Whatever you might think of Peta's tactics, which include placing caged, naked women in city centres, and billboard ads promoting vegetarianism with the illustration of an overweight woman in a bikini, there is no doubt that Peta activists know how to make themselves heard. If you go to a market like Portobello, there is rail upon rail of old fur coats and jackets with fur trim which people seem to be perfectly happy to buy. It's had to escalate to such a point — that's after the polite inquiry, the begging letter asking. And while real fur still remains beyond the price range of the average customer, the look of fur has become increasingly sought after. Newkirk does not look like an extremist. But for Newkirk, the most powerful argument against wearing fur is the suffering of the animals raised to provide it. There's something a little bit racy about fur.
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